compressed air is a great idea for blowing out the flames. i noticed today a couple of times i got a mouth-full of fumes when i took in a good breath to blow out the fire.
the only thing about the curtis is i'm not sure what its amp limit is. it's probably kind of low. the controller that came with the forklift has a high rating - around 500A. but you're right - its design (SCR) is harder on batteries than the modern controller style.
Make sure the drains work!! I may have to learn welding on my Geo to fix it - doesn't sound like my brother is going to be working on it much - would probably only take a few hours of welding now that it is in about the right position but he doesn't see it that way yet I work for hours on his computer making it run well. Why don't people see that balance of time for time....well anyway - anyone know of some alignment tricks to get things lined up properly on the Geo before I weld everything in place let me know!
you know, i think it was the 2 open drains at the bottom of the firewall (they're actually in the underbody, just after the transition from firewall to underbody) that caused the rust i've been fixing.
the outboard drain is perfectly positioned to receive tire spray directly into it, and once the water (salty water in the winter) is inside, it's not going to dry up quickly. the inside floor, firewall, and underbody of the car form a roughly triangular shaped cavity accessed by those drain holes.
anyone know of some alignment tricks to get things lined up properly on the Geo before I weld everything in place let me know!
if you decide to go ahead with fixing your geo, and you want me to take measurements on the blue car that will help, let me know.